Baja Seakayaking 101

THINGS TO TAKE

Maps: Large-scale charts of the Sea of Cortez are hard or impossible to find. More useful are topographical or fishing maps and Baja cruising guides. Discover the Sea of Cortez Paddle Charts and Mini-Guides, produced by Ed Gillet and Gerry Cunningham, point out good places to camp, places to avoid, where to get water, and so on. Squeeze bottle of bleach: Dilute 1-1/2 teaspoons to a pint of water. There’s less chlorine in this mixture than in table salt, but it will remove anything unhealthy on you, your food, and your dishes, then break down into little more than salt water. Take enough to be generous, but remember that it is an irritant. A pocket-sized bottle of alcohol-based sanitizing gel is convenient for keeping hands clean, which is important to staying healthy.

Tarp: This is indispensable for cooking on to keep sand out of your food, and for resting under during the heat of the day. Believe me, you’ll want shade. I usually forgo a tent, since they’re hot and next to useless in the wind. Repair kit: Even if you’re renting, consider taking a modest repair kit. Kayak gear in Baja has a hard, short life thanks to the sun and the customers. Pack a small tube of instant epoxy and some waterproof rigger’s tape for leaky hulls and coamings, and maybe a beach ball you can inflate inside a compartment if the hatch completely fails.

PFD, spray skirt, paddle: Again, even if you’re renting or on a guided tour, you’ll be more comfortable using your own stuff, and odds are it’s in much better shape. Paddles are a hassle to carry on planes, but if you take one, don’t check it.

Clothes for sun and wind: You need things that are light and will dry quickly, with long legs and sleeves, and that are as windproof as you can afford. Throw in some polypro in case you get pinned on a windy beach. Don’t forget a brimmed sun hat you can strap to your head. And by the way, you’ll want to keep some clothes on even when the weather is fine, unless you’re alone. Mexico is a conservative society, and nudity is not something many local guides appreciate.

Sunscreen: Get some kind with zinc or titanium dioxide, the only effective blocks. It’s hard to find good waterproof sunscreen, since none seem to contain these ingredients, but speaking as a melanoma survivor, I’d put my money on Neutrogena or Bullfrog. Take some lip balm, too.

Mask, snorkel, and wet suit: You don’t want to miss out on what’s going on beneath you, and the water can be cooler than you expect.

Phrase book or dictionary: Get a small one, dog-ear useful pages, and keep it in your front pocket all the time. Practice using it before you need to so you won’t feel self-conscious pulling it out in public. Chances are you’ll be seen as respectful rather than silly.

Cash: Get some Mexican currency in advance to take with you. It may sound odd in the digital age, but taking pesos to Baja is easier and even cheaper than getting them there, at least in the small denominations that are most useful. Dollars work, especially at gas stations (which are cash only, by the way), but not far from the beaten path. Traveler’s checks can be even more of a hassle. There are a few ATMs in most of the tourist places now, as well as banks, of course, but there is no guarantee that either will be functioning or have small bills. Nothing is more irritating than trying to buy 50 centavos worth of tortillas (plenty for a few days) with a 100-peso note.

Most hotels and restaurants that cater to tourists will accept credit cards, for a fee, but don’t even think about getting a cash advance with your card from a bank unless you speak really, really good Spanish and have lots of time to burn. Even then, don’t count on getting more than a couple hundred bucks.

On the Beach : So your carefully planned kayak trip got blown away by El Norte? No problemo. Baja boasts many treasures: fishing, scuba diving, whale watching, mountain biking, spectacular hiking, prehistoric cave paintings, museums, missions, and excellent food. Of course one of the great joys of visiting Baja, to my mind anyway, is doing nothing at all—preferably in the shade, with some coconuts and cold beer nearby.
Senior Ted is a frequent Canoe & Kayak contributor and is a veteran of many sojourns South of the Border.