Fabulous Fiji Whitewater

We paddled on downstream, drifting beneath layers of basalt piled on layers of river rock, piled on layers of basalt. Big eddies carved bowls out of the canyon, with waterfalls we could paddle under. Slot canyons revealed more hidden waterfalls to those of us who left the main channel. At our lunch spot, the river swirled into a deep, deep pool, where I dove in to swim with vivid blue swarms of fish.

It is a privilege to be in this place, with these people. Almost all the land in Fiji is owned by local mataqalis, or village landowning groups. They treat visitors with enormous hospitality, while maintaining traditional village culture. Rivers Fiji was started by OARS, a U.S. company with more than 30 years of experience on whitewater rivers. They have partnered with the nearby Fijian villages to create the Upper Navua Conservation Area, ensuring that this unique river corridor will be protected from logging and mining for at least the next 50 years. Rivers Fiji leases the land from the local mataqalis, and a percentage of the fee paid by each client goes directly to the villages. Village leaders were involved in designing the river trips.

As we neared the end of our trip, we left the gorge and began paddling through cultivated areas. At the take-out, children from the nearby village treated us to a few songs before we piled in the bus and drove away. For more information about the 10-day multisport trip, which includes sea kayaking, mountain biking, and trekking, contact Outdoor Travel Adventures, (877) 682-5433; www.otadventures.com.

Robin Stanton is the managing editor of Canoe & Kayak Magazine.