Northern Exposure

Away to Anchorage EAGLE RIVER Getting There: Take the Glenn Highway north out of Anchorage. Take the South Eagle River exit into the town of Eagle River. Turn right onto Eagle River Road, heading toward the Chugach Mountains. The north fork access is about 10 miles down the road. You can also put in lower, near the Eagle River Briggs Bridge, and run three miles of rapids to the Glenn Highway. Take-out is on the left just before the Glenn Highway bridge, at the campground. Logistics: A highly recommended resource for anyone paddling in Alaska is www.kck.org, a Web site maintained by the Knik Canoers and Kayakers. It has good information about specific rivers, as well as river stages and flows. Lodging: It's only a 15-minute drive from Anchorage, so you will probably be staying at one of the numerous hotels in town. If you want to camp, there is a campground located near the river beside the Glenn Highway. PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND Getting There: Take the Seward Highway south out of Anchorage, following Turnagain Arm until reaching Portage Valley. Turn left onto the Portage Valley Road, which terminates at Whittier. There is only one lane for traffic and trains in the tunnel; generally the traffic direction changes every half hour. Call the Alaska DOT at (877) 611-2586 for rates and openings. Logistics: If you want to rent kayaks or take a guided trip, check in with Alaska Sea Kayakers, (877) 472-2534, or Prince William Sound Kayak Center, (877) 472-2452). For water taxis to points deep in the sound, contact Honey Charters, (907) 472-2493, or Lazy Otter Charters, (907) 345-3775, to make reservations. Lodging: Portage Valley offers numerous scenic camping areas, while Girdwood offers more upscale lodging. Whittier has limited options, so plan to be camping on the sound your first night. THE KENAI/SWAN LAKE Getting There: Take the Seward Highway south out of Anchorage, turning onto the Sterling Highway 80 miles south of town. Just after entering Sterling, take the Swanson River Road on the right. Logistics: An excellent guidebook to the area is The Kenai Canoe Trails, by Daniel L. Quick. Canoes can be rented in Anchorage at Backcountry Safaris, (907) 262-7021.

Calving Glaciers: Ah, the beauty of Alaska! One day enjoying fine whitewater paddling, the next sea kayaking in beside towering tidewater glaciers. About an hour south of Anchorage on the Seward Highway (don't hit any Dall sheep or tourists on the drive down) is Portage Valley, the access route to Whittier and Prince William Sound. With the opening of the Whittier tunnel to vehicles (originally, access was by train), day trips on Prince William Sound are now a reality. Prince William Sound comprises 15,000 square miles of raw wilderness, hundreds of glaciers, and abundant marine life. Day paddling in Passage Canal is very scenic, although you will be sharing this narrow fjord with other boats. My favorite day outing is a paddle across Passage Canal from Whittier. Almost directly across from Whittier are numerous large waterfalls cascading into the sea and a large black-legged kittiwake rookery. These delicate seabirds nest on rocky cliffs, and the rookery has hundreds, if not thousands, of kittiwakes. Paddling near the thunderous falls with kittiwakes soaring overhead is close to sensory overload.

If you have a few days, the best way to explore Prince William Sound is to go to Blackstone Bay. Water taxis will shuttle kayakers into Blackstone Bay, eliminating a day's paddle through busy Passage Canal.

Blackstone Bay has multiple tidewater glaciers, as well as Yosemite-sized waterfalls. Watch house-sized icebergs calve off tidewater glaciers, creating mini tsunamis that sweep through the bay. Huge "gray wacky" beaches offer incredible camping; make bets with your tentmate on the number of icebergs that will be stranded on your beach by high tide. Explore the rain forest, paddle through ice-choked bays, catch a salmon for dinner ... you'll wish you had a few weeks instead of a few days!

The Kenai: Just south of Anchorage across Cook Inlet lies an area special to many Alaskans, the bountiful Kenai Peninsula. Offering world-class fishing, stunning mountain scenery, and limitless recreational possibilities, the Kenai is a mandatory stop. Paddling options are numerous, but don't miss the Swan Lake Canoe Trail.

If you haven't felt remote enough on your other paddling adventures near Anchorage, Swan Lake will remedy this problem. Located two hours south of Anchorage, this portage system connects 30 lakes sprinkled in thick boreal forest. Distractions are limited to a wolf howling or a bull moose munching on pond weed. Don't forget your fishing gear--the rainbows get fat and lazy (read: easy to catch!).

Try putting in at Canoe Lake, paddle and portage to Otter Lake, set up camp and relax while being serenaded by loons all night. If you have multiple days, start paddling at either Canoe or Portage Lake and work your way to the Moose River. A nice Class I float will take you back to the highway; you will need a shuttle to get back to your car.

After an exhilarating few days in the Swan Lake, make sure to stop in the town of Girdwood on the way home. Chair Five Pizza has great food and is a favorite watering hole of the outdoor crowd.

Most of the lakes have unofficial camping areas, so finding a spot isn't a problem. Soldotna offers the best hotel options.

Tom Bol is a freelance writer and photographer living in Fort Collins, Colorado.