I Dream of Fiji

After a lovo feast-dishes of fish, chicken, dalo (taro) leaves, cassava, and more, baked in the ground all afternoon - we returned to the meetinghouse for more kava and an impromptu meke dance performed by some of the village youths. We lingered late as the men broke out their guitars, and traditional Fijian songs were interspersed with American pop tunes like John Denver's "Country Roads."

When we paddled into Malake Village, my first impression was one of poverty - a collection of tiny corrugated-tin houses huddled haphazardly around the harbor - but in the day and a half that we spent there, I learned that the people of Malake are rich in community and hospitality. Most of the land in Fiji is owned communally by local clans and villages, and while many indigenous Fijians live at subsistence level, it seems that few in the villages go hungry or lack a place to live.

The homes in Malake Village are very simple, often with just one or two rooms. Floors are covered with soft grass mats, and most family life takes place with people seated on the floor. Women cook over fires outside, then serve meals on beautiful cloths laid out on the floor. During our 10-day trip we spent the night at two villages and visited two others. While each was different, they all shared the same warm hospitality.

We spent the night in one of the village chief's homes - he has three - and the next morning walked through the village at dawn and met a few families returning from fishing. Often they'll go out for a week at a time, Warren explained. They can sell their catch on the mainland and bring in $250 Fijian - worth a little more than half that in U.S. dollars. Gardens surround the village, and much of the food is locally grown. Some of the residents work at resorts on the mainland, living in town for several weeks at a time and returning for weekend visits, bringing more cash into the local economy. The school goes through eighth grade, then children stay with friends and relatives on the mainland while attending high school.

That morning Warren offered us a choice: to paddle back across the wind to the mainland, or to have the support boat carry us back. We were still getting to know each other, and no one wanted to be the wimp who asked for the boat, so we set out again in our kayaks for the crossing. After paddling into swells and crosswinds for an hour or so, Jon and I were happy to see guides David and Nasim approach in the support boat. We caught on and held tight for a wild ride across the waves until they deposited us near the shore, then returned to pick up the others.

We only scratched the surface of Fiji's sea kayaking opportunities. Other island chains, notably the Mamanucas and the Yasawas, also have sea kayaking operations. The area around Rakiraki, however, has fewer resorts and fewer tourists, and visitors are welcomed like family. In addition to the trip we took, Safari Lodge offers kayak trips ranging from one to nine days, and visits to five different villages, each with its own personality.

But we had more adventures ahead. From Rakiraki we drove to the town of Ba. Scott Graham and Nicole McGuigan from Wacking Stick Adventure Tours met us with a truckful of mountain bikes, and we headed up into the Nausori Highlands. This was part of the route followed by the Eco-Challenge racers. We had the option of riding in the truck with Bibi, the driver, for any or all of the bike route, and I spent more time in the truck than on the road. Bouncing through the Nausori Highlands with the Fijian band Doki Doki on the tape player is a good way to spend a sunny afternoon. Scott worked with the media during the Eco-Challenge and had many stories to share. He had good things to say about Mark Cosslett, whose photos from the Eco-Challenge appeared in Canoe & Kayak in May 2003.