Bahamian Rhapsody
"The one thing you never want to do when sailing in a kayak is cleat the sail to the boat. One big gust, and you're over." Bardy explains to the group as our small, colorful sails flap in a steady southeast breeze. "Keep a loose hand on the mainsheet, and if you feel a strong gust, just let go." It's lucky for me that my paddling partner, John, is in the stern in charge of manning the sail. I have never been much of a sailor, and I am sure some Shackleton epic would occur if I were in charge. After spending the morning rigging sails and packing boats, we paddle off Staniel Cay.
Whop! Abruptly our blue sail fills with wind, and the heavily loaded Folbot jerks forward. Within minutes the 12-knot southeast wind has our kayak making wakes through small cays, cruising at around 7 knots. I can't shake my paddler's instinct, sitting in the bow, gripping my paddle, ready to brace at a moment's notice. I feel more like I am paddling a whitewater boat than sea kayaking.
It doesn't get much better
"Ready to jibe!" John announces, and before I can figure out what jibe means, the sail whips over my head and snaps onto the other side of the boat. This maneuver sends me into full bracing position, ready to attempt a roll. John's soft chuckle from the stern confirms the fact that I need to review some sailing lingo and "relax, don't worry, be happy."
The most striking aspect of the Exumas is the water. Miles and miles of every shade of tropical blue, colors blending into one another like feathers on a peacock's tail--turquoise to aqua, indigo to sapphire, cobalt to azure--there aren't enough adjectives to describe this Exuma virtue. Located to the west is the Great Bahama Bank, a vast section of ocean composed of sandy shoals and shallow waters, providing the perfect reflective ocean floor and causing this kaleidoscope of tropical hues. Snorkeling here is similar to floating on top of a large magnifying glass, the water's lenslike properties a perfect optic for viewing the abundant tropical fish and coral.
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