Isle Royale, MI
We loaded up early the next morning and paddled around Rock Harbor Lighthouse, getting our first taste of full exposure to "the lady," as many locals call Lake Superior. The paddling is very scenic and pristine. Steep rocky cliffs striped with orange lichens barricade the shore; beaches are rare. The water is emerald green, transparent, and frigid. I had to remind myself not to look for sea lions. It was easy to forget that I was on a lake. A healthy Canadian Shield boreal forest covers the island. Towering white spruce and jack pine are mixed with balsam, poplar, sugar maple, and paper birch. The constant chatter of red squirrels resonated from the forest, and a merlin darted past chasing songbirds. Ripe, succulent blueberries, raspberries, and thimbleberries grew near the beach and topped our pancakes.
As we approached Saginaw Point, the wind picked up and waves steamed in from the southwest, the direction we were headed in. There were no decent landings until our next camp. The 20-knot wind convinced us to use our cross-country permit and camp in a non-designated area, Lea Cove.
"West wind building to 30 knots this afternoon, waves four to six feet," the marine radio droned. Even on an ocean, I had never seen weather come up so quickly and unpredictably. Given the steep cliffs and limited landings, it seemed prudent to listen to the marine forecast. Just as fast as the weather deteriorates, it can also change for the better.
The next day it had improved, so we made the short trip to Chippewa Harbor, where we planned to stay for several nights. Paddling into the harbor, we are greeted by a nesting pair of bald eagles, effortlessly soaring overhead. Suddenly, a huge silver fish jumped right in front of our boats.
"Did you see that?" Michael yelled excitedly. "There are salmon in this bay, and I'm going to catch one for dinner." In a blur of motion, he paddled back into the bay, returning a half hour later with a huge grin on his face.
"Take a look at this," he said with a smile, holding up a 10-pound king salmon. "This fish really fought. I even had to pass the rod under my boat." Isle Royale appeals to paddlers and anglers alike. The island is laced with numerous pike-filled lakes, all connected by maintained portage trails, perfect for canoeing and fishing. And you don't need a fishing license to fish the lakes. After a lazy morning of lounging on sun-warmed boulders near camp, we explored the back of Chippewa Harbor, which has two portage trails leading to inland lakes.
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