Canoeing the Soper River Valley
Finally, we make it past the Joy and Livingston, major tributaries that pump new life into the water-challenged river. For the next three days we paddle in pure bliss, a steady downhill gradient sweeping us mile after mile past upland lakes, deep gorges, and elegant waterfalls. In a land where Inuit hunters still roam, lone bull caribou eye us nervously from gravel bars, and in the translucent light, where wide-open perspectives confuse the eye, arctic hares bound into view looking as large as deer. Foxes and wolves leave signs of their presence, and snowy owls, horned larks, gyrfalcons, and soaring hawks grace the rarely darkening sky.
Eventually the mountains begin to wither, replaced by rolling hills and tussocky, pond-filled meadows. At one of our tent camps near the coast, we discover strange circles of rocks. A dozen pit-type excavations are nearby, littered with whale ribs. The remains of an ancient whaling village, it undoubtedly belonged to the Thule, forerunners of today's Inuit who occupied coastal Baffin from AD 1200 to 1800.
Camping near the centuries-old hunting camp is a heady experience, a true privilege, for the Thule were the world's first kayakers, having invented the qajaq. With quiet admiration, we wonder how they survived in this unforgiving land. We cruise in plastic boats and eat deli-style lunches, whereas for the Thule, kayak forays into frigid, often dangerous waters determined whether their families would eat or starve.
Climaxing our extraordinary journey across southern Baffin Island is Soper Falls. With a deafening roar, the emerald river drops through a snow-white cataract gorge, mingling its fresh waters with the salty arms of the sea. Humbled, we take a last look back at the sheltered, enchanted valley and recall the tough lives of the island's original paddlers. Our loads suddenly feel lighter as we shoulder our canoes up the final portage trail.
Getting there: With daily jet service from Ottawa and Montreal, Iqaluit, capital of Nunavut, is the jump-off point for your south-flowing journey. Once in Iqaluit, you can meet your guide or charter an aircraft for the half-hour transport to the Soper valley.
Logistics: Known locally as the Kuujjuaq (pronounced Kooj-wack, meaning "Big River"), the Soper is possibly the most northerly waterway in the eastern Arctic navigable by raft, kayak, or canoe. Six days is more than ample time to complete the 50 navigable miles of this Canadian Heritage River, a major flow by arctic standards.
Camping/lodging: An abundance of sandy river terraces provide easy camping, and you can spend evenings hiking into the backcountry. Trip terminus is the coastal village of Kimmirut on Hudson Strait, where you'll find art studios, a hotel, café, and two retail outlets for food and supplies.
Outfitters/resources: For maps and information, contact the Katannilik Park Visitor Centre (867-939-2416, www.nunavutparks.com). Guide services include Sunrise International (800-748-3730, www.sunrise-exp.com) and The Great Canadian Adventure Co. (888-285-1676, www.adventures.com). Or check our online Adventure Paddling Directory for more outfitters.
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